MOUNTAIN COATI

/koʊˈɑdi/
noun: coati
plural noun: coatis

What is a Mountain Coati?

The mountain coati (also commonly referred to as coatimundi) is a Central or South American raccoon. Texas Exotic Animals breeds the Nasuellaolivacea, also referred to as the “mountain coati”, which is native to the Andes Mountains of South America. These delightful and curious little imps can be a handful, but are very interactive and enjoy lots of playtime. They are intelligent and active, and adapt well to their owner’s schedule. They are happiest with a large enclosure but, if this is not feasible, you can substitute lots of playtime outside their cage.

Mountain coati care is the same as the white-nosed coati, so on this page we will talk about the few differences. Please refer to our section on white-nosed coatis for diet and other basic cares suggestions.

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Carnivora
Family: Procyonidae
Genus: Nasua

Baby Mountain Coati

The cost and care will be the same as a white-nosed Coati with one exception: the mountain Coati has a tolerance for a wider range of temperatures. If you live in colder climates this might be a better option when choosing which Coati you like for a pet. Some say the mountain Coatis tend to be a hardier a Coati, but I found no difference.

The mountain Coati is referred to by many different names. Some of them are ring-tailed Coati or blonde Coati. They most commonly referred to name is the mountain Coati although is it thought by some to be incorrect to call them that.

Color variations are many shades of tans, browns and greys. Some will be very blonde with ringed tails and some can be very dark faced with a ringed tail.

Mountain Coatis often have a slight musky smell that is more noticeable when they are in season. I don’t find it offensive or that noticeable. You might want to visit an adult Coati if you are highly sensitive to any kind of animal smell. Cat boxes and hamster cages smell much worse than anything Coati. Some say that mountain Coatis are smaller than white-nosed Coatis. In my opinion it might be true. However the difference in weight and size is very slight and not worth consideration when choosing a Coati.

The mountain Coati is commonly found and bred more often by Coati breeders and for that reason we have fewer mountain Coatis. I have found no difference in pet quality. Honestly, the main difference for a pet owner is which Coati’s appearance and coloration they like better.

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Common questions about Coatis


Diets vary a bit depending on whom you ask and your coatis special dietary needs if any. I will tell you what I feed mine.

Staple Diet: A healthy dry dog food. Never cat food. I have been feeding Iams lamb and rice. My vet recommends the Iams lamb and rice too. Free feed unless your coati has a weight problem. If you feel your coati is becoming overweight consult your vet for a proper diet.

Additional foods: In moderation you can feed them almost anything you can eat. Healthier choices are eggs, fruits (No fruit cores. Apple, orange, and pear seeds are toxic. I remove all hard seeds), veggies (mine like carrots, sweet potatoes and collard greens), nuts, healthy dry cereals, Mazuri Monkey Crunch biscuits, cooked chicken meat (no chicken bones unless you want to chance a vet visit as they can splinter) fish, shrimp, and frozen thawed feeder mice, pinkies, and small rats. They can eat larger prey items like adult rats, bunnies, and chicks but it’s messy and probably not something you want to watch. You can also give them feeder insects. Live roaches, crickets, and worms are wonderful. We recommend using store bought or home grown feeders. There are insect breeders that will send you bulk to start your own colonies. The reason for this is simple, wild insects are probably just fine but if you use a lot of pesticides, or your neighbor does, they could ingest some of that. I take mine outside and they forage on walks. Since we live in a more rural area this is not a huge concern of mine, but it deserves a mention so you have all the information to decide how you want to control what your pet eats. Don’t be cruel and intentionally feed your coati live mammalian prey items. (miceetc) Live prey items bite back and can take out an eye or get loose and breed in your house. Not freezing your feeder rodents can also give a coati parasitesafter eating a live rodent. Don’t panic if your coati catches a tasty snack if you let them have some supervised playtime in the backyard. If your vet is worming them and they don’t get themselves bit there was probably no harm. If feeding rodents and insects is not something you can do other proteins listed above can be used. Just remember a coati is NOT a vegan! If this is your lifestyle choice that is fine, but to force your choice on an omnivorous animal is wrong. Additional foods should be given with limits, not free fed. Along with dry food, I offer them a medium-sized bowl with some extra protein like a scrambled or boiled egg or a few chunks of meat, a frozen thawed rodent, or about half dozen worms along with about a cup of mixed fruits and a few chucks of carrots, sweet potato and maybe a small amount of greens.

Treats: I love to use treats for training aids and playtime fun. Coatis have a real sweet tooth. Processed sugar is NOT a staple food item for anyone. Don’t dish out treats by the handfuls. A tiny piece of something goes along way. For treats I use a regular sized marshmallow, a peppermint, fruit cereal bars, and other fruit-filled snacks (one bite-size piece at a time) grapes (I also add a few to their food, but they are a favorite treat too), plain raw peanuts in the shell (messy but they love them), dog biscuits, or a bite of most anything I am eating. No chocolate! Too much dairy will make them sick (and probably all over your nice sofa) so go easy on ice cream, yogurt (a real favorite of mine) and milk. No more than a taste!

A good rule of thumb: Diet: 50% protein, 47% fruit and 3% other (veggie matter/roots) in the wild. The protein can be a good brand of dry dog food, mice, chicks, eggs, worms, and chicken. Fruit such as bananas, papaya, mango, cherries, and melons are good, to name a few. As far as veggies, you can make that up by using raw or baked yams, sweet potatoes, carrots,and pumpkin.

What not to feed. May be toxic (remember toxicity level is different for each animal depending on weight):

Caffeine
Sugar free sweeteners of any kind in any form are toxic to all animals to my knowledge
Onions/garlic
Chocolate
Alcohol
Avocado (debatable, but here are theories that the pit and dark green stripes could be bad for them…not worth risk IMO)

What do baby Coatis eat? MILK! Not regular dairy milk, though.

It’s very important that you follow your breeder’s instructions. You will receive a special care sheet and your baby’s personal bottle and bottle feeding lessons when you purchase your baby from us. Your baby will be on a bottle for the first 4 months of its life. We understand bottle-feeding can be a scary process for some. We will be here for you. I keep my phone line and email address and even Facebook available for my clients. We cannot give you vet care, but you have my personal promise to help with advice and suggestions based on my experience. Baby coatis will wean themselves; we do not recommend you rush the process. Each coati is different. We use Esbilac puppy milk. NEVER USE AN ALL PURPOSE MILK or COW’S MILK. It will make you Coati very sick.

What kind of house do you want for your Coati?


Let me start by saying this is one of those controversial topics. I am going to tell you what type of enclosures my Coatis live in and why. I will mention several options. One very important thing to remember is that not all situations are suitable for every home. You must consider when choosing an enclosure to consider things like your experience raising Coatis and available space and safety for your coati inside and outside. I will try and give you the pros and cons of both and many different situations. I am writing this as a guide, not the only solutions. Every home is different. Safety first is always my number one rule.

This means no cage. Let me just say this; a Coati is not a house cat or a puppy. Left to their own devices they are smart enough and strong enough to open refrigerator doors, cabinets, jars, pill bottles, and cleaners they may find under your sink. Coatis love to rub soaps and other scented chemicals on their tails. If you are a first time Coati owner, please consider that this is not a safe option for you. I know some very experienced Coati owners that do this successfully. They know their Coati’s behaviors and they have special adaptions built into their homes and safe areas (acreage) for their Coatis to roam. Warm temperatures must be provided so you will still have to provide shelter in the winter. I have been to some of these homes and it’s heavenly. It is true most of the time Coatis don’t roam too far from home. This is not always the case. I personally have had the unpleasant task of reading the heartbreaking, sobbing emails from people who have lost their Coatis due to wildlife or feral cat and dog attacks. These people were/are good coati owners. Things like this just happen. No regular fencing can hold a wandering Coati either. They are excellent climbers and can wander off, get lost or stolen or, worse, killed by a scared neighbor. These things really happen and in my opinion it is not worth the risk for me personally.

Mountain Coati Photo Gallery